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How to Barbecue Like a Pro
Fire Up the Grill
There's nothing like a backyard barbecue to pass a summer day.
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Fire Up the Grill
John O'hagan/Styling: Rose Nguyen
When I think of "cooking out," my mind drifts back to slow days on my parents' back porch with pork ribs drenched in red sauce simmering on the grill. But it turns out that red sauce would be blasphemy in other parts of the U.S.-eastern North Carolina, for instance. And in Texas, cooking pork instead of beef would be a problem.

Here's a look at two very different approaches to the art of grilling.

Texas

Beef brisket is the meat of choice for most Texas cooks. One such cookoff veteran is Glenn Nicholas of Arlington who along with his wife, Pat, founded the Lonestar Barbecue Society seven years ago. The society sanctions 62 cookoffs annually.

But Glenn is not just an organizer. He participates in an average of 35 competitions each year. He says a key to his success is the trailered barbecue pit he built with the help of a welder friend. "It has a firebox that burns wood or charcoal on one end," he says. Smoke enters through one end, passes through a cooking chamber where meat is placed on two grills, and leaves through a smoke stack on the other side.

It's the indirect heat, as well as the wood or charcoal, that gives Texas barbecue its unmistakable flavor.

One cookoff held in Meridian every August stands out in Glenn's mind. It draws some 200 contestants in temperatures that can easily reach 100°F. "We'll get a rain shower if we've been living right, and it will be 80° to 90°F," Glenn says. "I always say barbecue cooks are crazy because when it's 85° to 90°F, we go build a fire and stand around it."

North Carolina

The definition of barbecue varies according to which side of the state you're on in North Carolina. In the east, barbecue is made from a whole hog, and the sauce is vinegar-based. But in the west they serve Lexington-style barbecue, which uses only the shoulder of the hog. Sauce is basically eastern-style with ketchup, sometimes Worcestershire and a bit of brown sugar added.

There's a raging battle over which style is best. But folks from all over the state agree that the annual Blue Ridge BBQ Festival is a winner. More than 20,000 people are expected to attend the 11th annual festival June 11-12 at Harmon Field in Tyron, N.C. And 90-plus cooking teams are expected to compete for cash prizes.

If you're not a competing cook just yet, don't worry. Our barbecue and sauce recipes will make your backyard the place to be for family and friends this summer.

Barbecued Beef Brisket
1 (5- to 6-pound) boneless beef brisket
2 teaspoons paprika
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 (11- x 9- x 2-inch) disposable aluminum roasting pan
Hickory chunks
1 cup water
Vegetable cooking spray
Sauce

Sprinkle brisket with paprika and pepper; rub over surface of roast. Place roast in disposable pan; add 1 cup water and cover with aluminum foil.

Soak hickory chunks in water to cover 30 minutes; drain. Wrap chunks in heavy-duty foil, and make several holes in foil. Light gas grill on one side; place foil-wrapped chunks directly on hot coals. Let grill preheat 10 to 15 minutes.

Place pan with brisket on rack opposite hot coals; cover and grill 31/2 to 4 hours or until tender. Turn brisket every hour, adding water as needed. Remove brisket from pan, reserving 1 cup pan drippings for sauce.

Coat grill rack with cooking spray; place rack over hot coals. Place brisket on rack; cover and grill 10 to 15 minutes on each side. Slice against grain into thin slices. Serve with sauce.

Yield: 12 servings

Cider Vinegar BBQ Sauce
1 1/2 cups cider vinegar
1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/4 cup ketchup
1 tablespoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon browning and seasoning sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Stir together all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Then cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, 7 minutes or until sugar dissolves.

Cover and chill sauce until ready to serve.

Yield: 2 cups

Tangy BBQ Sauce
1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
3/4 cup steak sauce
1/2 to 3/4 cup sorghum
1/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup lemon juice
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 to 4 dashes hot sauce
Dash of seasoned salt
2 tablespoons pineapple marmalade (optional)

Cook first 9 ingredients and, if desired, marmalade in a medium saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes or until thoroughly heated.

Yield: About 3 cups

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