I have a Model M John Deere tractor that fouls plugs after about five hours of running. I use the highest priced gas I can buy at the station, but it still fouls plugs. I will send you a bucket of fouled plugs of all brands and heat ranges if you can help me.
Thanks for the plug offer, but I have plenty of fouled plugs on hand at this time. Older gas tractors don't like today's fuel. However, there are a few things we can do to help with the problem.
If possible, make sure your carburetor never floods. Always shut off the gas after use. You also never want to "overchoke" your engine. Any unnecessary amount of today's raw gas on an old tractor's plug will kill it.
Your carburetor needs to be adjusted so it is running at the proper mixture. If it is running too rich (black smoke), your plugs will foul. Always make sure your choke is fully open during tractor operation.
One more thing you can do: Always buy the lowest octane fuel possible. If you are buying the most expensive fuel, it probably is the highest octane, which could be the cause of your problem.
Lower-octane fuel explodes more radically (burns faster) than high-octane fuel; that's why "cheap" gas makes your car's engine "ping." This faster burn of low-octane gas will help keep your plugs from fouling.
Your tractor's engine is designed to run on leaded fuel. There is an additive available at auto stores to replace the lead that was in the gas supply when your tractor was in its prime.
I recently restored my dad's H Farmall. Everything was fine until my grandson turned the tractor lights on and left the barn. A week later the battery was deader than dead. I removed the battery and put it on my old charger. It's still all factory-original, 6-volt positive ground with a generator. The battery took a charge, but now my amp gauge reads backward. What should I do?
If your grandson has not been working on the battery cables on your tractor, something rare may have happened to your battery. When you charged the battery with absolutely no voltage in it, it reversed polarity. This happens with some older chargers. Get a new battery and get rid of the old one. This battery is confused and it can be dangerous. With a new battery, your amp gauge should work correctly.
I have an 800 Series Ford tractor. It had a 6-volt positive ground system and a generator. I changed it to a 12-volt battery and switched the system to negative ground, but now it won't charge. The alternator has one big post on the back and a pigtail with a big red wire and a small white wire. Can you tell me how to hook up the wires so the alternator will charge the battery?
You can wire your tractor several different ways, but here's a simple solution. Since your Ford 800 does not have an amp gauge, run a heavy-gauge wire from the big post of the alternator to the starter solenoid where the positive battery cable connects.
Then, run the big red wire from your pigtail to the big post on the back of the alternator. Finally, run the small white wire to the coil side of the ignition switch.
There's one final, important step. Your tractor may not die when you turn off the key, so you will need to get a diode from an auto store and put it in (split) the white wire. This white wire excites the alternator. Now everything should work as it did before.
A quick test to see if your Delco alternator is charging: Hold a screwdriver on the middle and back of the alternator with the engine running. You should feel strong magnetism if the alternator is charging.
Can I use my 6-volt starter after I convert to a 12-volt system?
Yes, but try not to stay on the starter for an extended period of time. You will find that the starter will turn much faster, but will heat faster too.
Should I pour oil on my baler wire, or is the small coating on it enough to make it easier to feed through the guides and come off the twister hook?
Years ago, baler wire came really soaked with oil, but the EPA put a stop to excessive oil on the wire. But motor oil—even used oil—will help. You will find that your wire guides, twister hooks and twister shafts will last longer, and the completed twist will leave the hook much more easily.
Write Steve Thompson at Ask the Mechanic, 2204 Lakeshore Dr., Suite 415, Birmingham, AL 35209 or mechanic@progressivefarmer.com.