You don't need a Ph.D. in economics to know that pasture is the cheapest form of nutrition for your livestock. There is a lot of science—and some would say a degree of art—when it comes to creating and maintaining a profitable pasture program. Here's a step-by-step guide to put you on the path to better pastures come this spring. Don't look for shortcuts. Be committed and get informed. It can make all the difference this year.
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2. Get a soil test.
With today's fertilizer costs, you cannot afford to guess how much fertilizer to apply. Contact your county Extension agent for assistance on how to take a proper soil sample. In some states, land-grant universities will run the analysis of your soil for free or for a nominal charge.
3. Lime and fertilize.
Most soils will require lime applications to maintain proper pH, says Don Ball, a forage specialist with Auburn University in Alabama. Typically the more nitrogen you apply, the more lime will be needed.
Lime applications should be made three to six months prior to pasture establishment or renovation. This allows time for the pH to adjust in the root zone, which will maximize use of nutrients.
4. Rejuvenate worn-out pastures.
You may have to bite the bullet and start over if your current pasture area is too far gone. If this is the case, your thinking needs to be long-term, not short-term. Plant high-quality seed of proven varieties (or sprigs, in the case of bermudagrass) on a well-prepared seedbed. Spend time researching what forage will be best in your area, based on your individual needs.
5. Interseed legumes.
Legumes improve overall forage yields and quality. In addition, legumes fix nitrogen in the soil, reducing commercial nitrogen requirements.
"Research shows that in the second year of its establishment, red clover can fix up to 200 pounds of nitrogen per acre," Lacefield says. "At today's prices for nitrogen, that's worth a lot."
Legumes overseeded into tall fescue dilute the effects of the endophyte that can cause serious animal losses.
Seeding perennial legumes into warm-season grasses does not work as well as it does with cool-season grasses. However, overseeding warm-season pastures with winter annuals—annual ryegrass and annual clovers—is very useful for extending spring grazing.
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6. Start rotational grazing.
Aim to graze your livestock on young, leafy plant tissue. The best way to achieve this is to cross-fence pastures into smaller cells or paddocks, using single-strand hot wire.
You can have animals graze each cell for seven days or less, then move to the next area. The idea, according to Ron Lemenager, Purdue Extension beef cattle specialist, is to give the plant 25 to 38 days of rest between grazing cycles. "Individual animal performance may not be significantly greater, but carrying capacity is increased," he says.
The number of cells and the length of grazing and rest periods vary with grass species and growing conditions. Available water is essential in each grazing area.
7. Control the weeds.
Dense stands of forage grasses, enhanced by a good fertility program, proper pH and grazing management, often will crowd out weeds. If that doesn't work, the use of selective herbicides may be necessary.
8. Be alert to bloat.
Bloat, grass tetany, prussic acid poisoning and nitrate poisoning can be deadly to cattle. But all of these disorders can be anticipated and managed.
The potential for bloat with legume pastures, and the risk of prussic acid poisoning with sorghum-sudan-type forages, increases for a week following a frost. Wait five to seven days after a frost before grazing to reduce these risks.
It's also important to make sure animals have plenty of fill and wait until the dew has dried from plants before turning them onto legumes.
Feed cattle a mineral mix high in magnesium and energy to avoid grass tetany problems.
9. Bale surplus.
If you have fertilized your pastures adequately and were lucky enough to receive timely rains, there will be occasions during the season when your animals can't keep up with fast-growing pastures.
Instead of letting grasses go to waste, skip a cell in your grazing rotation and cut it for hay or haylage. Although hay is more expensive than pasture, it can be a lifesaver during winter days when no grazing is available.
10. Extend the season.
Stockpiling is a great way to extend the grazing season. Instead of baling excess forage, skip one or more cells in your grazing rotation and apply nitrogen to these areas in early August. Let the forage accumulate in these smaller pasture areas, and turn animals out on them after a frost.
A University of Missouri study showed that stockpiled tall fescue costs 25 cents per animal per day compared to $1.32 per day for feeding hay.
More: Catch up with what's new in forages at www.progressivefarmer.com/bestpasture.