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Plug It In

Here's the wattage required to run appliances around the homestead. The first number is running wattage. The starting wattage is in parentheses.

  • Coffee maker: 1750 (0)
  • Microwave: 625 (800)
  • Refrigerator: 700 (2200)
  • Furnace Fan, 1/3 hp: 700 (1400)
  • Sump Pump, 1/2 hp: 1050 (2150)
  • Air Compressor, 1 hp: 1500 (4500)
  • Electric Fence, 25 miles: 250 (0)
  • Milk Cooler: 1100 (1800)
  • Electric Welder, 230 amp AC at 100 amp: 9000 (0)
  • Milker, vacuum pump: 1000 (2300)
  • Heater, 150,000 BTU: 625 (1000)
  • Desktop Computer: 600-800 (0)
  • Monitor: 200-250 (0)
  • Fax: 600-800 (0)
  • Printer: 400-600 (0)

  • Power When You Need It
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    Power When You Need It
    An automatic backup generator makes power outages a thing of the past.
    It doesn't get much better than watching snow fall on a January night. Regardless of the swirling snow and cold outside, life is cozy with a snapping fire in the fireplace, a blanket around the shoulders, a novel in the lap and a steaming cup of tea on the side table.

    Nothing better-until the lights go out. In the country.

    It can take hours-even days-to get the power up again.

    But this doesn't have to be the case. Lights, refrigerator and heat can be practically uninterrupted-all in less time than it takes to read this page.

    An automatic backup generator hooked up to your home's electrical system supplies power to the circuits where you need it most, says Mike Carr, marketing manager for Generac Power Systems in Waukesha, Wis.

    A backup generator has an automatic transfer switch, Carr explains. It monitors the presence of utility-supplied power. If that disappears, the generator kicks in. When utility-supplied power is restored, it automatically shuts down.

    The generator typically has a battery to initiate the start. The battery is kept ready by an onboard charger. The generator ought to be at full operating speed in 8 to 15 seconds.

    Carr offers the following tips for buying an appropriately sized backup generator:

  • Decide which key circuits you want powered when your utility-supplied power fails. You can power you entire house or your whole operation.

  • Install a separate load center, or have your contractor do it, to pick your key circuits. A typical load center allows you to connect about a dozen circuits.

  • Calculate the amps needed to supply those circuits.

  • Hire an electrical contractor, if necessary. He can hook up an analyzer that will measure your power use over a two-week period. It will measure the watts and amps you need to operate the devices plugged into your chosen circuits.

  • Consider the peak load demanded by the appliances in your house. For example, a refrigerator requires more power than normal when its motor first starts.

  • Calculate the power needs for your farming operation, keeping in mind the importance of heat and ventilation in certain enterprises. For example, a nursery, dairy or chicken operation is vulnerable to power failures.

  • Choose a generator with plenty of power. If you find you need a 60-kilowatt generator for your home and farmstead, you might want to invest in a 75-kilowatt model. Generators run most efficiently at about 80% load.

  • Pick a generator that uses the right fuel source for your needs. Generators come in models that run on any fuel source, including propane, diesel and natural gas.

  • Maintain your generator. A handy feature on a backup generator is one called an "exerciser." Every week, the generator will automatically turn on. During that run, it goes through a self-checking function. If the generator has fallen out of certain operating parameters, it will signal the owner that maintenance is required.

  • Choose a generator that meets your farm's requirements. Residential generators range from 6 to 40 kilowatts. For most homes, 6 to 15 kilowatts will be sufficient for normal requirements.
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