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The Wild Side
Sell The History, Keep The Ranch
A piece of the American West changes with the times.
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Sell The History, Keep The Ranch
La Mota Ranch is a family affair, led by Billie Hellen (holding children). Each week the family hosts one to three busloads of tourists.
The Hellen family of Hebbronville, Texas, is on a mission to sell La Mota Ranch-but only its history and nature, not the real estate. After all, the family took root here in the 1890s, when a sickly young man with only one leg moved from Washington, D.C., seeking health in a hot, dry climate.

Charles Waugh Hellen trapped mustangs that ran wild along the Mexican border, bred the mares to blooded jacks and sold the mules to settlers. When the wild horses were no more, he branched into the cattle business, where his family remained for most of the twentieth century and into this one. Now they've sold the cows, gotten into stockers and made more dramatic changes in their business plan.

The family is selling the ranch experience to tourists by the busload.

From fall into spring, "winter Texans" escape the cold winds of the Midwestern U.S. and Canada and flock to the Rio Grande Valley on the Texas-Mexico border, where it's Bermuda shorts and bicycles for them nearly every day. Some will ride tour buses about 90 miles up into the brush country from McAllen to see the Hellen family's brushy, wildlife-laden ranch-a world totally unlike what they have back home. And there is plenty to see and hear.

One morning each week, Charles W. "Bill" Hellen meets one to three tour buses at the front gate of his family's ranch south of Hebbronville and rides with them down ranch trails to the old headquarters. His family and ranch employees wait for them there, where they have built extra rest-room facilities. The group meets in an open-air gathering spot with a thatched roof that keeps out the sun and rain. There's a campfire going with a big pot of coffee to greet them.

"Good roads, campfire coffee and plenty of bathrooms are essential for what we do," says Bill, who retired from the car business and joined the family ranch 10 years ago.

When everyone is comfortable, Bill's sister, Charlotte Powell, leads a discussion about the history of this place, which was originally state school land surrounded by Spanish land grants. Their nephew, Charley Hellen III, demonstrates vaquero horsemanship skills with the ranch remuda.

Then as visitors tour the brush pastures in a converted school bus, Bill tells them how sport hunting for wild quail and trophy white-tailed deer began contributing to ranch income a decade ago. He brings them up to date on nature and heritage tourism, which he considers the area's new wave.

"You are directly contributing to keeping us from having to fragment this old ranch," he tells his guests as they peer out bus windows for a look at rare birds and big deer.

Here the tourists see an amazing variety of wildlife at home in the sub-tropical brush. There are also Longhorn steers, an antique windmill and several other sights of a working Western ranch.

The group then gathers around a campfire. The cook ("the most important guy on the ranch," says Bill) serves them a typical south Texas cowboy lunch of carne guisada, rice, beans and pan de campo. It's all topped off with brownies made by Bill's mother, Billie. Then the visitors are on the bus and heading for their winter homes.

Total family involvement makes this enterprise work. So do contributions from talented friends, such as local experts who give talks on the healing powers of medicinal plants used by Native Americans. The Hellens have teamed up with a tour operator in McAllen, because handling one guest or family at a time wouldn't be feasible. They also put on field days for special-interest groups such as birders and botanists.

It's a big production that isn't about getting rich quick. The family receives a little under half of the $55 to $59 fee per guest that the tour operator charges. Yet Bill Hellen considers it worth the trouble.

"My dad ranched about 500 mother cows, and he didn't want any hunters or strangers on the place," Bill says. "Today it takes 500 cows at a bare minimum to make a living in the cattle business, so we have to do something different."

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